It was an easy-peasy day because we didn't hike. This was our day off to spend in the medium-sized village of Grantown-on-Spey. I've been spelling it Granton, because that's how it's pronounced, but it's really Grantown. Now that we've cleared that up …
Our hosts, Pearl and Martin, are ex-lawyers who threw off that busy life and opened the bed-and-breakfast, Rosehall, two years ago. Their breakfast is good, their conversation is addictingly interesting, and the B&B is right in the heart of town. We have had the best time ever.
Martin felt so bad that almost everything, including the laundry -- yikes! -- was closed because it's Sunday. Not too long ago, everything would have been closed. So Martin offered to drive some of us to a local bird sanctuary for ospreys. Kathy, Patty, and Jessica flew off with him and had a good time wandering around the preserve.
Matt, Tom, and I -- I especially -- continued to recover from yesterday's walk. We did do a short walk to the end of town, through a nice park, and to the River Spey, the first time we've gotten close enough to dip our toes in it since the town of Speyside. We met a couple with their 14-year-old dog. The dog was arthritic and his back legs were dragging a little, but the little guy was enjoying his walk and getting to meet new people. They made a very sweet threesome.
Then I washed socks and re-arranged my suitcase for the umpteenth time.
Before dinner we got together with Martin and he told us stories about his wife and daughters. Every story was charming, eloquent, and done with a light touch, even when he strayed into political issues. He and his wife are English, so they have to step lightly in a Scotland that currently has a referendum to become independent from Great Britain.
At Martin's daughter's wedding, he put a bottle of local Speyside whisky at each table. He has challenged me to name what those whiskies might be by breakfast tomorrow morning. I am such a rank amateur and have only dabbled in tasting the Speyside liquor. I'm in deep trouble, I think.
At dinner tonight someone asked Jessica if we were on the Whisky Tour, and she said yes, without thinking. This is my bad influence on the group.
Before I forget, today's whisky talley is: Dalwhinnie -- good, but I knew that already.
Glensomething, provided by our host -- good but with a strong aftertaste
Isle of Jura, provided by our host -- excellent, but I already knew that, too!
Dinner was at an Indian restaurant right across the street. We waited a loooong time after ordering before getting our dishes. The restaurant wasn't very full, and the chef probably didn't want to pre-cook a lot of food because it's not the high tourist season. The locals eat a traditional Sunday dinner in the afternoon, rather than dinner at night, so they weren't going to be coming in.
The wait was worth it. The food was excellent. From tikkas to sags to biryanis to homemade naans, it was superior.
An easy day but great in so many ways. (If you don't count the battered hamburger that, fortunately, nobody ordered.)
The sky is clearing and things are looking sunny and warm for tomorrow's 11-mile hike.
The view from my third story window.
The unfortunately closed Red Sock Laundry.
The town hall with its clock tower, pretty much right across the street.
Rosehall. Stay here if you're ever in Grantown-on-Spey, Scotland!
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